Crete
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Overview
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Tips for: backpackers • business travelers • luxury/exotic travel • hitchhikers • families • seniors • LBG travelers • pet owners |
Hotels and lodging
Some Culinary and local travel recommendations for those of you which plan to visit West Crete and Chania area.
This is brought to you "Wikis" by Guy Waysman Which lives in this area since 1996. For further information about West Crete and specially the fishermans villgae of Sfinari.
Villa Tranquila offers a perfect getaway from modern life and civilization. The only 'vehicle noise' you will hear is the voice of Lefteris Theodorakis commanding his mule while plowing his field. Listen to a new composition of sounds which is led during winter and spring time by the whisper of spring water trickling in the adjacent gorge. Alarm clocks are replaced by the chanting of the cock. Have a glass of ouzo on the terrace during sunset and relax. Should you decide to do some sightseeing we recommend the following:
- Chania is said to be the oldest, still inhabited city in the world. It may or may not be right but a fact is that Chania has been in existence for over 5000 years. It is now a large, noisy town but as soon as you get into the old town and walk its narrow streets and alleys the atmosphere changes and becomes charged with history.
Most prominent are the Venetian buildings and fortifications as well as the covered market. Chania also houses an Archaeological Museum and a Maritime Museum which are both worth a visit. Chania offers good opportunities for shopping, nice cafés and lots of good restaurants. Apx. 1 hr drive.
- The beaches in Elafonisi island at apx. 40 min drive. The beach is a heaven for kids as the crystal clear water is shallow for hundreds of meter and the reef around the lagoon ensure that the water is calm.
Elafonisi
- Falasarna Beach is located about 20minutes drive north of Sfinari. Splendid beach with crystal clear water and white sand. In order to get to the best beach you should drive toward Hotel Plakures. At Plakures you turn left towards the sea and drive another 100m. The northern part of this beach is mainly naturist beach. Falasarna with kids- If you visit Falasarna with kids then I recomend the beach below Galacia Thea Tavern. Its a great snady beach with lots of kids attractions in the Tavern.
- Gramvousa Bay: Gramvousa and Balos beach bay are the most beautiful beaches I have seen in Crete. It is not easily accessible yet worth the effort. Gramvousa and Balos are located on the northwest part of the island. In order to get there you should drive from Sfinari towards Kastelli. Before you get to the port of Kastelli you should turn left following the signpost Balos Hotel. Follow this sign until you get to a dirt road. Follow the dirt road all the way to the end. At the end there is a Cantina. You should park at the Cantina and follow the dirt path to the beach. The walk down hill takes about 20 minutes and up depends on your physical shape. It is advisable to bring some food and drinks as there is only one Tavern on the beach. You may set your expectation high
The restored eco village of Milia is located between Vlatos and Elos. Apx. 1 hr drive south east from Sfinari. In Milia you may find restored accommodation rooms and excellent locally grown food. I love Milia and I love and respect the team which creates and run the place so you may say I'm biased but Milia is a proof that once you are totally committed to the highest standards in your doing, you will succeed even if you are located in the middle of nowhere. They are remote, secluded and fantastic. Bravo Milia! on this one!
Omalos
- The "sea pond" in Sfinari: Driving on the asphalt road towards the beach you get to a T intersection . Turn left and drive apx 100m till you see a small sign "Kantina" The beach here is secluded and the water is calm even when the sea is rough. This pond is suitable for kids and for adults that gave up surfing fantasies.
- Picnic in the mountains: After a few days of sun, especially in July and August, you may be ready to leave the heat for a mountain chill out. Drive towards Chania and stop at the big I.N.K.A supermarket in Kolimbari to get your picnic needs. Once you are well equipped with your picnic needs, you should drive on the new road toward Chania and exit before Chania following the signpost to Omalos. Drive towards Omalos and find a suitable picnic spot in this alpine surroundings. I usually stop at Lakki and set a table on wide safety rail overlooking the White Mountains.
Some culinary recommendations: Sfinari Village Taverns: Sunset-tavern
- Adonis Theodorakis Tavern at the entrance to Sfinari makes very good Moosaka (only the fresh one - not frozen!) stuffed vegetebles and a Cretan specialty called Kotopolo Pilafi which is a chicken cooked with rice. For the Pilafi you should give a day notice for the preparation.
- Yorgos & Evangelia Tavern (next to Adonis) specializes in meat cooked in the oven. You should ask for a Sfakyano.
- To Kati Alo makes my all time favorite spinach pie or Spanakopitas. At to Katty Alo you can also buy good olive oil.
Sfinari Beach Taverns:
- Sunset Tavern: Sunset Tavern and the Baladakis family are a culnary "super power". Nikko Baladakis has a fishing boat and along with his talented Mother Elleni who is the cook, they create wonders. Helleni Baladakis cooks a daily dish for her family - "Catsarolla" which changes from day to day. You should ask to visit the kitchen and look at the daily Catsarola. Another specialty of Elleni is the Supya. A stuffed cuttle fish stuffed with goat cheese cooked in the oven. Yanis Baladkis (husband of Elleni) hides his live lobster inside a cage by the tavern beach so you may indulge yourself with a fresh lobster upon request. The Kakaviya which is the local fish soup is also a excellent choice.
Sunset-tavern
- Dilina tavern which is the middle Tavern in Sfinari Beach has two culinary items that are hard to match: 1) Choryatiki-Greek salad . This is one of Greece most popular dish. The best choryatiki I had was in Dilina. 2) The second area of expertise is BBQ meat. The selection changes daily so you should ask what is avilable.
If you invite Yanis (the Tavern owner) for a beer you may get a Bozuki session along with the beer.
- Captain Fidias which is the first Tavern in Sfinari beach also has a fishing boat. I recommend the grilled Octopus and the deep fried Barbooni-red mullet.
The Tavern offers a large variety of fresh fish depending on the daily catch.
Recommended restaurants out of Sfinari:
- Papadkis Tavern in Kasteli is a local legend. The Tavern was established in 1960 and has kept a excellent food and service standards. The Tavern is located in the promenade of Kasteli-Kissamon Beach. You should step into the restaurant and look at the daily special.
- Don Rosario Italian restaurant in Ravdoucha Beach offers great Italian food. You should call ahead to reserve a table 28240-23781. Don Rosario specialize in lobsters. How to get there: Follow the road sign on the main road from Kastelli-Kissamos toward Kolimbari till you see the road sign Ravdoucha.
Lena
- The last recommendation is one that can't be skipped. Now that you get a little "overdose" of feta cheese and olive oil, it's time for some different experience. Pick up the phone (at the Cafenio or public phone) and call 2822-061537 and ask for Lena, who runs a little Scandinavian enclave in Amigdalokefali, which is located 20 min south of Sfinari. Ask for a feta and olive oil "rescue package" which consists of beautifully designed and perfectly tasting Scandinavian food. Lena also serve the best coffee I drank in Greece.
Miscellanies food and drink notes:
- On the way to Sfinari beach you will see on your left side a small sign 'we sell honey'. Behind this modest sign hides one of the best honey producers I met. Lefteris Theodorakis' wife, who is in charge of 'marketing' is having the old ladies' daily gathering at her 'shop'. You will probably see there Mama Niki, a local legend. Try to get an explanation from Lefteris as to the health benefits of consuming his honey. (has to do with sex, obviously)
- In Kastelli-Kissamos you can buy fresh fish, sea food and everything that you might need. It is recommended to stop in Kastelli-Kissamos on the way to the house to do some shopping.
Graviera cheese
- In the Market street in Kasteli-Kissamos across the water fountain you will find the shop of Michalis. Michalis has pretty muchonly two products in his store: coffee and cheeses. The Gravyera (see pic below) is one of Crete's best cheeses and Michalis is the place to buy it.
- There are two small stores in Sfinari which sell pretty much everything one may need. Try to challenge Stavros or Stella the shops owners with your request.. They will get for you pretty much everything. Some time it may take a few moments till they pick it up from the garden or collect it from the hen-house (eggs) but you will get it. Viva the small enterprises....
Attractions
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Shopping
Maps and transportation
Getting to Crete
Exploring Crete
Practical information and resources
Restaurants
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Nightlife
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External resources
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